Wednesday, 11 March 2009

Kilimanjaro Reflections


My goodness how time has passed since my trip to Tanzania, as is too familiar we hit the ground running and disappear up the road memories of a fantastic holiday fade all too quickly into the past. Time now to grab those memories and to carry the achievements forward with me, I would like to share some of these treasured memories with you as a small measure of appreciation for your support and generous sponsorship.

Support
From the outset of the challenge to raise £3,000 for Climb Your Mountain and climb Kilimanjaro if I was a little overwhelmed. However, the response from all my supporters at home has been absolutely incredible. Whether it be teaming together to organise the fund raising gig or the moral support of the round of applause from a spin class after the climb. I have even had strangers approaching me in the gym asking me how I got on. Putting aside the challenge represented by Kili itself for one moment I personally can take so much away from this challenge.

I have been forced to put aside my natural shy nature to approach people to sell my fundraising efforts for the charity. I have been very pleasantly surprised to find that community spirit lives and amazed by people’s generosity in backing a good cause. And as if it ever needed re-enforcing preparation is everything!

I have embraced new technologies that I have shied away from: blogging, You-Tube, photo web sites. If you have not viewed these, can I recommend you watch the video on You-Tube, see the link below:

Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iF-mVCGmrM


Photos - http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/JSKChurch/JamboJamboKilimanjaro2009#
Sponsorship - www.bmycharity.com/jezontopofafrica
Charity - http://www.climbyourmoutain.org/

Africa
Africa is such a fascinating continent to visit, as anyone who has visited there can testify. Every building, hut, road, person, animal is so different not just to home but each other. There are no standard designs or modularisation of buildings. Everything is so vibrant in colourful and character from the orange soils to the tribal colours. In so many ways at home we are used to bland fashions whether it be clothes or housing. Yes, they may be poor but we can also learn so much from them too. Their resourcefulness, recycling or family values are a lesson to us in lost principles. I had been fortunate to visit Malawi eight years ago, but Kenya and Tanzania are wealthier nations. One thing all African countries do appear to have in common are awful roads, whether it be unmade roads, by this I mean dirt roads, or tarmaced roads riddled with pot holes. I am not sure which was worse! These are long and uncomfortable journeys, thankfully my mind was distracted from this by the fascinating variety of scenery and life which characterises these roads.

There are so many truly memorable moments, may I summarise some of the highlights: -
Possibly two hundred children descended upon us in a screen reminiscent of news reporter in an aid camp when one of Land Rovers broke down.
We are very rarely experience being above the clouds, so walking for days looking over the African plains blanked by soft woolly clouds was a magical experience.
The somber expeience of coming across a plane which had crashed killing four Australian passengers three months prior. The plane had exceeded its maximum height at 4,000m and simply fell out of the sky. This put into perspective the altitude to which we had climbed and the lack of oxygen effecting us all. We were still climbing…
The sky at night. Without the light and air pollution of human development we were afforded views of distant galaxies which appeared to be within touching distance. Thousands upon thousands of stars sparkled brightly sparkled like jewels.
The absolute glee of the porters on receipt of our gifts. These items ranging from air beds to fleeces are things that they can not buy there. I kid you not Nigel’s porter was in tears.

The Challenge
The Challenge itself? My first siting of the mountain will most likely be my long standing memory of Kili. Why? It’s shear splendour rising above the African plains, words nor photos quite do justice to either the scale or height of this beast. May be figures can provide a better feel of scale. Here stands a mountain in front of me rising some 5km above the surrounding savannah to a total of nearly 6km. To a lot of people a good walk on its own, let alone vertically! So why do I dwell upon this point? Most likely because I had not visualised the shear size of the challenge.

Climbing Kilimanjaro was more a test of mental endurance than a physical challenge. To manage the altitude and the effects of lack of oxygen – at the summit just 40% of what we are used to at sea level – the pace was incredibly slow. Unfortunately altitude sickness struck me early, on the evening of day 2. I had gone down with a cold on arrival in Tanzania, one of the worst things that can effect you at altitude, blocked sinuses impedes your ability to adapt to the changes of pressure with altitude. For three long days this turned into a battle of mind and body. Our doctor, Clemence was never far from my side monitoring my condition. I experienced the worst headaches that I have ever had. I can only describe the pain as if your head is about to explode! During the climb I focused on my breath to manage my heart rate, there was no need to measure my pulse here, I felt every heart beat… This soon turned into a drunken sensation, nausea and eventually a total loss of appetite. You know I am not well when I loose my appetite! So this soon turned into a test of visualisation, determination and strength of mind. All the time Kilimanjaro loomed rising well above us high in the skyline like a cathedral spire does over a city centre skyline.

Sadly for me the climb ended at Kibo Hut, at the base of the summit climb. Day 5 and its five hour climb up and across the Saddle had taken its toll. I felt weak, struggled to remain conscious and ultimately was physically sick. I knew that I was in no condition to complete the last and by far the hardest section of the climb. I was offered diamox, a drug which masks the symptoms of altitude sickness but also hides signs of other serious conditions but to me that would be cheating. I was happy in the knowledge that I had reached 4,700 meters, well above the recommended maximum of 3,000 meters for anyone suffering from a cold. Believe you me I have had many regrets since my return home.

The experience was so much more than just a climb. Camping for seven days with temperatures plummeting to minus ten degrees at night, protecting your skin from the fierce equatorial sun, washing only from a bowl of luke warm water and drinking water collected from streams. It felt great to be a one with nature and enjoy basic values of life, even if we were all a bit dirty and smelly by the end! This is a small price to pay for the priceless treasure of treading our path on this splendid mountain.

This paints a picture of almost of torture, I would argue that this is living. It is amazing our ability to forget pain and remember the many wonderful experiences. It is easy to forget the sheltered lives that we in the western world live. We worry about trivial things by comparison to people living in poverty who scrimp and scrap a living from the land. These people have little or no support structures, no social security, education and health care are at best limited. It was an honour to experience a little of Africa and its people for an all to brief nine days.

The Purpose of the trip!
So let me finish by returning to the purpose of this trip, to raise funds for a fantastic charity called Climb Your Mountain. Through YOUR generous support and sponsorship I have raised £4,300 for the charity. If those of you have promised to donate in recent weeks do so may be we could break the £4,500 barrier.

Thank you for you over whelming support both through you emotional support and sponsorship donations. Without this none of this would be possible. The next challenge? Geneva to Nice across the Alps, I can’t help myself!

Jez

Photo album

An extensive photo album is available at: -

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/JSKChurch/JamboJamboKilimanjaro2009#

Enjoy!

Monday, 9 March 2009

Kili Video


Jambo, Jambo!!! - Hello

I have created a video compilation containing all the best photos from the team to create a wonderful pictorial diary of the climb. Click on the link below: -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iF-mVCGmrM

Thank you to Nigel, Mark and Simon for their photos. Our varying viewpoints compliment each other very well!

PS. Feel free to rate it, I am intrigued how many hits it gets as I have never done anything like it before!

Sunday, 15 February 2009

Day 7 - Release the pressure




After making such a difficult decision not to make the final ascent all you want to do is decent to lower altitude to release the pressure causing your headache. Quite frankly you dream of the luxury of your hotel and a shower. The reality is another thirty six hours of dirt and grim plus the small matter of another twenty nine kilometers of walking. At least this time it would be downhill.

We descended on the more popular "Coca-cola" route. This path is a lot more established than the Rongai route affording the occasional panic area and signposts which quite frankly spoil this wilderness feeling of the mountain. Its one redeeming feature the most spectacular view across the Kenyan plains and mountain range. The views must be 60-80 miles and for much of it when there were clouds you would be looking down on top of them. A rare and very special treat.

Of this long descent shrouded personally in the sense of anticlimax at failure to achieve my goal there was one magical moment that only mother earth my provide. A star lit African sky. This same spectacular panorama covered by a million stars shining so brightly that you felt that you could reach out to touch them. What in particular fascinated me was the seemly layer upon layer of galaxies which lay beyond what we in our western light polluted skies.

Once we finally and slightly wearily reached the lower slopes of Kili we returned to the rain forest. This was more extensive than we had previously experienced. The rain forest was lush and enveloping as you may expect, it gave us the opportunity to watch Columbus and blue monkeys feed and their young innocently play. A fantastic conclusion to an incredible and emotional adventure.

One final word to my fellow adventurers. Three months ago we were strangers, brought together to raise funds for the Climb Your Mountain charity. We have shared the most incredible journey to raise funds and complete this toughest of challenges. New friendships have been established, there has not been one cross word said during this highly emotional and tiring journey. An honor to your personal strength, patience and integrity. Every single one of the team showed enormous strength and determination to battle the elements and sickness. To Jane, Nigel, Simon and Mark congratulations in achieving the summit and conquering your personal dream.

Saturday, 14 February 2009

Day 6 - Disappointment

This is it make or break, summit day. Unfortunately for me I knew the answer. The final section of the previous days climb had a big effect. Immediately afterwards all I could do was sleep. I had not recovered from my cold sufficiently, realistically I could I climb the hardest 1,250m?

My head had throbbed all afternoon, no drugs helped, I feel for migraine suffers. Dinner would confirm my fears, my altitude sickness manifested itself in more physical means. As much I did not want my Kili challenge here this was the end of my path. As the others set off my head was stuck in plastic bag.

It has been an incredible journey. Disappointed? Yes, but I can hold my head high, they recommend the highest altitude anyone with a cold should go is 3,000m, I made 4,700m at base camp and battled altitude sickness for three days.

If anyone could doubt how hard this 'walk' is, only four of our party of nine made it to the summit. Jane described the summit climb as "harder than giving birth"

Day 5 - Why?


The question all of us were asking ourselves. By now all bar one of had experienced some form of altitude sickness. Dinner for the first time was a somber affair, we were all fighting personal battles. The one thing we shared was the stark drop in temperature. Everyone was wrapped up in there thermals for dinner!

This is tough don't let anyone describe it as a walk.

I awoke in the middle of the night with a big headache but at least now I could breathe. By morning this had turned to nausea. This felt like a very bad hang over. It required all my efforts to pack my bags. Today we set off for Kebo the base camp of Kili.

Today's walk took us into arid fields of ash more reminiscent to a Mars landscape than Earth. Here too another reminder of the extremities of our environment, the wreckage of a light aircraft. It had exceed its maximum height of 4,000m with tragic consequences.

We are now at 4,700m at base camp. The last two hours we straight with the teasing sight of our route up Kili. The last section of path ramped up steeply, some of us found this very hard.

It hit Peter very hard, he felt his heart racing to extraordinary levels, with hereditary problems in this area he has very sensibly decided this is his end.

Day 4 - Tanquilty













Today has been mind blowing in many ways. The views have been stunning all day as we climbed 700m across the lava fields. Everyone has found the going tough but the views have inspired us.


All bar one of us has been effected by headaches today. I am still congested but touch wood I feel very positive that I will crack this thing.

Day 4 - Clear skies


We've had the most amazing views of Kili overnight and this morning. It is not the most enjoyable experience going to the toilet in sub-zero temperatures normally. Today however it was one of those memories that will stick with you for ever. Yesterdays rain cloud had cleared leaving a totally clear sky, the full moon beautifully lighting the mountain. The glaciers sparked like jewels.

I am feeling a bit better this morning. When the congestion clear I feel fine which gives me confidence that if I can rid myself of the cold I will be fine.

Day 3 - Clemence

During the last 24 hours I've had a far more attention from Clemence, our Doctor, than I would like. The little cold I picked up a week before leaving home has moved onto my chest and my throat is raw. In normal circumstances this would be trival, however, with restricted breathing this has brought on altitude sickness. My head feels like it wants to explode and this afternoon I have been nauseous. Clemence has been great, a very kind, softly spoken, visually like a black little Buddha. He has given me Cold cap and a course of antibiotics.

However, this a minor distraction to the subject of diamoxine to ease my altitude sickness. This is not a pleasant drug nor without danger. I do not want to take it besides i have just begun the climb it is far to early to be considering such a measure.

On a lighter note today was a gentler walk across the lava fields. We even had the novelty of a downhill section into camp. Unfortunately the weather turned at lunch time so we have not been able to enjoy the spectacular views of Kikelewa Caves. I struggled with the walk feeling very weak even drunk I really had to pace myself, even so all I could do was sleep this afternoon and had for the first time contemplated the possibility of failure.

I am pleased to report the rest of the team are doing well and in good spirit and providing me with great support.

Tomorrow is a big day 700m ascent. I am hoping that a goods night sleep will ease the situation as they say it can be a good thing to experience problems early in the climb. I am so determined to do this


PS I hope to reads ok as I know my mind and emotions are very scrambled right now - altitude!


Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device

Monday, 9 February 2009

Day 2 - Reality




The reality of the climb strikes home. We climbed for four and a half of unrelenting track. There are no downhill rests here. From mid morning I had a thumping headache. This does not feel good on Day 2, at only 11,800 feet... However, I am told this is a good thing as it shows your body is adapting? I am not alone Dean too is suffering.

We now have most of the afternoon to enjoy the stunning views of the Kenyan plains.